Barbecue Buzz: Greenbrier

Greenbrier Restaurant is also known as the Old Greenbrier. This is context from back when there was a New Greenbrier, which was also known as Greenbrier Bar-B-Q, and was opened by the previous owners of Old Greenbrier, I think.

‘Course, it doesn’t matter so much anymore because I’m writing about the only one left. But you should know you’ll hear “Old Greenbrier” much more than you will “Greenbrier Restaurant.” It remains right where it’s been for more than five decades: on the southeast corner of Old Highway 20 and Greenbrier Road, in southern Limestone County. (Oh, and it seems they build cars across the street now.)

Now, let’s talk about the food at one of the finest barbecue joints on the planet!

I must warn you about the hush puppies right up front, because a bottomless basket will appear on your table shortly after you arrive. Flavorful with just the right crispness, they are the best you will ever have anywhere. I like them with a little white sauce or rib sauce–those are viscous enough for you to squirt on them individually without making a mess–or plain. Filling yourself up on them is effortless, so be careful. There is plenty of good dinner on the way, and you need room for that.

Pulled pork is the soul of a barbecue restaurant, and though I’ve eaten most of the Greenbrier menu at one time or another, it’s still what I have nearly all the time. I get a large pork plate, which is a truly massive amount of food. (Sometimes I have a fleeting thought about getting the small plate–cholesterol, blah blah blah–but then I figure it’s the difference between jumping out of the 40th floor and the 60th. Go hard or go home.)

I get fries and extra pickles. (You can get a baked potato or sweet potato if you like.) I use the thin sauce you’re supposed to use for pork, and on some of it I also use a little bit of the Alabama white sauce you’re supposed to use for chicken. Couple with lots of black pepper and the always-fresh squeak-on-your-teeth vinegar slaw, and it’s simply a plate of heaven.

(Making it a happy plate is a challenge, particularly if you were irrationally exuberant with the hush puppies on the front end. But you just have to believe in yourself. Never trust a skinny restaurant reviewer.)

There are other delicious options. After pulled pork and hush puppies, Greenbrier is known for fresh pond-raised fried catfish, which you can get on the bone or as fillets (the way my wife likes it). One of my son’s favorites is barbecue chicken to go underneath that aforementioned white sauce. Ribs and ham round out the barbecue selections, and there are even fried shrimp or oysters for you if you’re in an oceangoing mood.

Greenbrier is a full-service restaurant with ample seating, though there can still sometimes be a wait. They also do a bustling takeout business, as well as professional catering (and I can tell you from long experience that this is fine football party food indeed). Pricing is quite reasonable, particularly given the professional-strength satiety you’ll have. It’d be very tough to get more satisfyingly full for less money than this.

I’ll see you there!